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The
peak is called Minapin as well as Diran. It is situated in
Rakaposhi and Haramosh mountain region near the Minapin, Hinarchi
and Baultar glaciers and is easily accessible because of the
Karakoram Highway. There is confusion about its height but
now all agree that it is 7,273m/23,861ft. high.
It is one of the fascinating peaks that
dominates the Gilgit valley and adds special colour to its
otherwise rugged beauty.
A three-member Austrian expedition, which
included Rainer Goschl, Rudolph Pischinger and Hanns Schell,
decided to try its luck on Minapin in 1968 after being refused
permission to climb Kampire Dior peak. It set up camp-1 at
4,800m/15,750ft. Big crevasses, inclement weather and deep
snow is recorded between camps 1 and 2. It was from camp-3
that the party was able to reach the peak which it termed
as a "big summit plateau."
The 1958 a British expedition to Diran peak
failed to climb it from north-west face because its leader,
E.G.C. Warr and a member, F.C. Hoyte, were struck by storm
and disappeared when only 300 feet from the summit.
In 1959, a German Karakoram expedition,
under the leadership of Hans Jochen Schneider, wanted to carry
out a geological and geophysical survey in Batura glacier
area. It was refused permission. Consequently, it turned its
attention to Minapin Rakaposhi area. On the 9th June, one
member, Erwin Stocker, and one porter reached a 18,000-feet-col
situated to the north of Minapin. Subsequently, the party
could reach a place which was less than one thousand feet
short of north-west face of the summit.
In 1964, an Austrian expedition from Salzburg
attempted to climb the peak from the north-west face but was
unsuccessful because of bad weather and danger of avalanches.
The party had only three climbers.
In 1965, a Japanese expedition of
Kyoto Mountaineering Federation attempted to climb the peak.
Earlier, in 1963 two of its members had reconnoitred the peak.
The party was only 250ft from the summit on north-west face
when it had to abandon the climb because of strong winds and
whirring snow.
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Facts
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Names : Minapin |
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Elevation (feet) : 23,861 |
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Elevation (meters) : 7,273 |
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Best Climbing Months : May, June
& July |
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First Climber(s) : - |
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Year First Climbed : - |
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